8 articles in this category
Introduction: The Hidden Risks of Familiar IceEven seasoned alpinists can fall into a pattern of underestimating serac hazards when routes become fami...
Overhanging alpine ice—whether a bulging pillar in the Canadian Rockies or a roof section on a mixed line in the Alps—demands more than just strong ar...
Alpine ice climbing at a high level is not about pulling hard on tools for a few pitches. It's about reading the mountain, managing risk across an ent...
Understanding the Core Paradox: Rigidity Versus FlexibilityIn my ten years of analyzing ice climbing equipment and techniques, I've identified what I ...
Every ice climber has felt it: the moment when the ice seems to speak, telling you exactly where to place the next tool, how to shift weight, when to ...
The ice is perfect—blue, bonded, holding ten solid placements in a row. Your body knows the sequence. Your gear is sorted. And yet, something in your ...
Introduction: The Efficiency Fallacy and the Unforced ErrorIn my consulting practice, I begin every engagement by asking a simple question: "What does...
Every alpine ice formation tells a story. The surface texture, color bands, and internal structure are not random—they are a direct record of the weat...